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A part of European culture was built around
rituals common to all pilgrimage sanctuaries. Where they are,
pilgrims address God by requesting the same interventions, by
venerating the same relics in pieces scattered throughout kingdoms.
The structures of brotherhoods appear to be similar from north to
south, with variable densities. As for the places of reception,
their tripartite structures with similar principles mark out all
the roads, meeting the fundamental needs of all pilgrims.
what is a pilgrimage for an european?
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From his birth, Man was acutely aware of the
Sacred, which appeared, in the most primitive religions, in the
observation of rituals including displacement towards necropoles,
which were at the same time cult monuments. This human feeling of
belonging to a world whose components exceeded comprehension
involved the birth of prayer, prayer to obtain grace, prayer of
contrition, prayer to meet this power that, above men, holds them
in his hand. These places could be springs or rivers where one
comes to purify and regenerate oneself, mountain tops where one
meets the sky, sacred stones and trees that one believed to have
life, places marked by the presence of a saint character.
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a dolmen close to Namur in Belgium
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For some believers, prayer gains in intensity if
done in a place more remote from one's residence, after a voyage in
which they were foreigners, far from their usual landmarks. But
this is valid for a minority only. The majority of pilgrimages
happens close to residence, in a range of maxiumum a few days'
walk. In the Middle Ages many arose from the possession of relics
whose trade was flourishing and which enabled many negociations
from one end of Europe to the other.
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reliquary foot in Namur
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They exert a powerful attraction and can become a
political asset: each sovereign or prince must support their
existence in his territory. Before the end of the fifteenth
century, no pilgrim, even on the way to Compostella, is astonished
to find on his way a body of saint James (Aix-la-Chapelle, Verona,
Angers...) here, a head there, another one here, a jaw there,
several arms elsewhere, any more than he wonders about the two
heads of saint Denis (Paris and Saint-Denis) or the three of saint
Jean-Baptiste (Amiens, Saint-Jean d'Angély, Nemours). Large
amateur of ex-voto offerings and of souvenirs, he generates a whole
trade around the sanctuary: candles, signs of pilgrimage, shells,
etc.
brotherhoods, structures of sociability common to
europe
procession of the fellows of Santiago,
stained glass disappeared from the Santiago church in Lisieux -
France - Photo Historic Buildings
pilgrims of today
A very strong confraternel movement appeared in
the Middle Ages and was prolonged to our days, in very diverse
forms. The framework of brotherhood greatly exceeds devotional
demonstrations in falling under much broader social practices and
policies, offering a "supplement of union" added to the family and
the community of inhabitants. A brotherhood is a group bound (by
solemn oath) by a common objective and especially placed under the
protection of a saint. This common objective can be the maintenance
of the cohesion of the same social group or the exercise of the
same trade. It would thus be pointless to reduce brotherhoods to
regroupings of former pilgrims to Compostella, Rome, Jerusalem or
Mount Michel, even though they did exist. Some of them contributed
to animating local pilgrimage sanctuaries and to disseminating the
worship of their patron saint. They organise solemnities and
accomodate pilgrims; they also said the masses. One of the common
objectives can be a community of political ideas centered on a
desire for political autonomy of inhabitants wishing to take part
in the management of their cities or villages. Their importance is
often revealed by the rank they occupy during grand processions or
royal visits. This was not without involving suspicions of
collusion with communal movements, even prohibitions by the
existing power, examples of which can be found in Provence, in
Switzerland, in Paris...
Accout book of the brotherhood of Chalon
sur Saône - France
Photo archive. dept Saône et Loire
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Within each group, but only within this group and
never elsewhere, brotherhoods are concerned about peace, morality
and mutual assistance, which does not prevent them from often
taking part in the most insane festivals during Carnivals. From the
sixteenth century trade brotherhoods multiply; they regulate the
exercise of such or such profession. The selected saint sometimes
has a relationship with this trade: saint James, patron of
travellers, is sometimes the protector of merchants, inn-keepers,
hat makers. Protector of harvests, gardeners put themselves under
his stick both in Germany and in Switzerland or France.
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an architecture of itineraries
hospitality in Sienna, reproduction of a
fresco from the 15th century
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Throughout all Europe, the increasingly numerous
travellers generated a hospitality network more particularly
intended for them, in total symbiosis with the road which, for
pilgrims, is a kind of prolongation of each sacred place. There
appeared for them, merchants or pilgrims on the way to a multitude
of sanctuaries, a strange tripartite architecture perfectly adapted
in its most complete form.
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It appears in the twelfth century near cities, but
outside the walls: on both sides of the road, a chapel and a hotel
building linked by a horse bridge thrown over the way. These
hospitality buildings offer common characteristics intended to meet
the fundamental needs of the travelling man: they are easy to find,
since they line the road, the chapel looks after the soul and the
hostel lavishes on the body the care it needs.
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The chapel offers a shelter and a bench to the
passer-by and counters often allow the distribution of food. No
modern lodging is this functional. Some vestiges of these buildings
condemned in mass by the widening of roads still remain, all the
more invaluable as they are rare, disfigured and, even today,
ignored and thus threatened: Pons, Pradelles or Cadéac in
France, Piperno in Italy, Puente-la-Reina or Castrogeriz in Spain,
the cathedral of Lausanne in Switzerland.
A splendid example of what such a refuge in a
particularly hostile environment represents for man is still
offered on the old way from Bayonne to Burgos, in Cegama, in
Guipuscoa. Almost on the top of the mountain a cliff closes the
horizon and seems to prohibit any passage. Some steps away, it is
miraculously opened by a stone tunnel (is it completely natural?),
Saint-Adrien tunnel. Below and opposite, one finds the door of a
tiny chapel and the equally small one of an inn. This formidable
and protective cave, this beneficial giant is often described by
travellers, and all pilgrim songs speak about it.
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the hospital porch in Pons - France
photo DPM
entrance to Saint-Adrien tunnel, on the old
road from Bayonne to Burgos - Photo LM
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