The testimony of Laura Léotoing former intern at the Institute of European Cultural Routes, a political science student, the experience of the way.
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european institute of cultural routes |
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| Aurore Mallet |
| 26 July 2010 |
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"At the beginning of May 2008, before leaving for the Saint-Jacques Route, I thought a lot about what I should take with me in my bag. I have been thinking about this route for a long time because it passes in front of the house where I was born, before arriving at the Puy-en-Velay where its great history starts.
I got the chance to meet many fascinating people while travelling the route. I’d always wondered why I had also found precious time to start my route as well. At the age of 19, I’d had a longing to discover more about this mysterious path, to encounter things which I would remember for the rest of my life, to walk through the countryside which seems as unreal as the landscape of Aubrac… After all of this, the day has come where I have found myself in front of my backpack, which was given to me by my parents at Christmas, thinking about what I need to ration and to reflect upon the importance of each gram that I put into my bag. So here’s the first image of my route: the essentials for living for ten days.
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Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Yes, ten days, because that’s the only time I have available and the time it takes to travel the first major part of the Le Puy route between Le Puy-en-Velay and Conques.
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| Sunday 25th May 2008 : Le Sauvage – Les Estrets 20 km |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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A rainy but happy day ! A lot of mud, rain slapping the rucksacks… Walking in the rain could be considered for an ordinary man as unthinkable, stupid and ridiculous… For us walkers, the rain is only water, it makes life, it makes sense. You don’t need to be scared. Plus, a pilgrim is equipped. A rain hat, gaiters, a cover over the bag… if you are wet, it really is a problem.
This day finished with a few skids in the mud, arriving at Estrets welcomed into the shelter.
Here we met Irmi, from Austria, who we had met the day before.
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| Monday 26th May 2008 : Les Estrets – Rieutort d’Aubrac 27 km |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Today the rain is with us constantly while we cross Aubrac. This place is even more magical with the fog, the rain and a path which transforms into a river.
It is midday, we’ve done 7km, but we still have 20 more to go !? Yes, but as a four, from now on, we are going to stick together. The walk is hard and it seems long today but am well accompanied, so it’s easier !
We arrive at the shelter at 7pm this evening, in spite of the storm, all four of us slept in one yurt, we said that the energy was best in the yurt! We made a meal fit for a king: lentil pancakes, vegetable soup. And the meal of a pilgrim is always accompanied by some red wine, often cheap wine, but wine all the same ! We fell asleep quickly after the hours of walking!
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| Tuesday 27th May 2008 : Rieutort d’Aubrac – Aubrac 16 km |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Today I discover ‘Aubrac’. This region is full of cows. You could say that they are wearing make-up because they are so elegant. At midday, we eat aligot (cheese blended with mashed potato and garlic), a speciality of the region. We find ourselves at the same restaurant as three Quebecois who we had spoken to in the Wilderness. It was great seeing these kind people again! We told them about our adventures so far…
We arrived in Aubrac with a strong wind. We had foreseen sleeping in a barn between two bails of hay. We had said it was go good address, with a certain welcome, a meal, music (an accordion player by the owner)… but with the cold, rain and wind, we took refuge, sleeping in the dormitory, in a tower that raises above Aubrac dating back to mediaeval times.
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| Wednesday 28th May 2008 : Aubrac – St Côme d’Olt 26 kms |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Here are the kind neighbours on the route who gave drinks and cakes to pilgrims to keep them going. Following this, we put a piece of it in a box to thank them. These little surprises are very appreciative, and it’s not the type of thing which is marked in the guidebook.
Today I am only going to walk with Irmi, 50 years old, Austrian, destination : Saint-Jean Pied de Port. This is because Crumble and Hans are taking the road because Crumble is tired and sick of the mud.
The fog leaves, little by little during the day. We cross a few new rivers, due to the rain. I have spoken a lot to Irmi as well as sung and whistled. We can forget everything here, the worries, studies, my wisdom teeth which are going to be pulled out in a week… Yes we think about crucial things as well : finding a roof to sleep under for the night, eating, resting, sleeping, taking care of the body and mind.
Before leaving for this route, I thought that I would be all alone the whole time and I would meditate on these long journeys. Finally, these are exceptional meetings which allows me to grow and philosophise. Because of this, I could then reflect upon my life much better, with each of their experiences. We are all similar, as standing men. Although in our little family of only four, we are all ten years apart : I am 19, Crumble is 30, Hans is 40 and Irmi is 50. The others’ experiences has stirred something in me, and I think, I hope I have done the same for them. But finally, we are all reflecting on ourselves in a way that would give our lives importance and significance, our personal path.
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| Thursday 29th May 2008 : St Côme d’Olt – Estaing 17 km |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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It’s a nice day today which makes me smile, we have to wear our sunhats ! The route goes quickly in the morning. We don’t realise how time has gone so quickly. I had planned to buy a picture of Espalion (pictured above), a very pretty village on the edge of Lot, sons making bracelets for my friends on the route.
It is 11.45 when we arrive at the top of Espalion, still another 1.5km… We run with Hans to find a haberdashers shop before midday. We did it, running as if it was a raid, to buy red, white and black sons.
The picnic along the Lot was nice, Hans carried beers in his beers all morning in his bag, and we brought strawberry syrup for midday.
In the afternoon, Crumble and Irmi go ‘shopping’ in Espalion when Hans and me leave for Estaing. It is very hot this afternoon, and what a good time to arrive at a cemetery…it seemed strange, but in a cemetery, there is always water, the pilgrims know it!
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| Friday 30th May 2008 : Estaing – Espeyrac 22,5 kms |
Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Leaving Estaing is quite tough by climbing up Campuac Plateau but is very pretty. We leave gradually, and at the bottom is Lot which I will go to again next year following my route to Livinhac-Le-Haut, after Conques.
It’s my penultimate day here and I have a feeling… I don’t want to say goodbye. With Hans, Crumble and Irmi, we’ve become a family. There isn’t necessarily a father, a mother and children but we are still a family. We ware equal and complementary to each other. We stick together with whatever comes our way. These connections were made quickly and by chance. All 4 of us have come from completely different backgrounds and countries and we have different stories. But when we crossed paths, and we met, it is a moment in my life that I will never forget.
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| Saturday 1st June 2008 : Espeyrac – Conques 13 km |
On the last day, leaving is difficult. I’m the only one finishing my journey today. Hans and Crumble are going to the end…and Irmi until the Spanish border. I wish I could continue with them but this evening my parents will pick me up from Conques and tomorrow I shall make my way back to Puy-en-Velay. A 3 hour car jorneay to return to where I started my journey 10 days ago.
The notion of time is completely muddled up on the route. We have time to live, to wake up when our body is rested, break when we are tired… It is nature which regulates our time in the day, human nature and the environmental disposition: the rising sun…
We walked along today thinking that we would no longer see each other… No, each we each pondered, thought, cried… I didn’t want to leave my friends. The arrival at Conques is brutal but this village ‘takes guts’, it has a soul. Something happens when you enter the St Foy de Conques Abbey… yes, so many pilgrims have come to this place, so many people sweat on this path which makes them conscious of things around them. There is life and a past here. As a pilgrim, arriving at Conques is the end of a journey. It’s my turn to finish this journey from Puy-Conques in ten days, 204km. My shoes are worn out, my skin has tanned, my camera is full with over 500 photos, my head is full of images in every colour, my eyes full of tears and stars…
The pilgrim celebration in the evening in the Abbey is an intense moment, while writing this, I still get goosebumps, my heart thumps, and tears in my eyes. We sing the pilgrim song for the last time ‘Ultreia’. While listening to brother Jean-Daniel play the organ and looking at the stained-glass window of Pierre Soulages lighting up, i realise that my journey will not end here. Next year I will redo the journey, and continue my inner path from there. This journey has been magical and I can say that it’s been the most beautiful journey in my life. I have crossed countryside, towns and borders, but this journey has greater aspect to it , not in a religious sense but in a human one.
I’ve spent around 4 years in secondary school but have learnt more about life here. It has helped me to live each day to its fullest, concentrating on what matters, on the truth, being positive, and putting life into perspective with all its dramatic turn of events… I have grown as a person, simply by walking on my own but especially with my friends .
United in diversity, we walked together on el Camino to learn how to live our better and become more in tune with ourselves and others.
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Photo by Laura Léotoing
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Hans, Crumble and Irmi, I dedicate this little story to you because: ‘ Happiness is only real when shared’, Alexander Supertramp."
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